Where to eat Semlor in Stockholm
While you might be thinking about flipping a pancake or two (my top tips here and my crepe recipe here). I've been busy researching where to eat the best semlor. The word semlor (plural Semla) originates from the German 'semmel' (translating to 'roll'). But this isn't your average bread roll we're talking about. The finest flour is used to make a soft and fluffy cardamom bun filled with almond paste, and then topped with whipped cream. They literally start popping up everywhere from petrol stations to your local supermarket once everybody has chucked their Christmas trees out. I can even find them in the freezer compartment at my local corner shop.*
So you don't end up eating a bad one (there are a lot out there) I've put together my favourite Stockholm picks (it's a tough job but somebody has to try them all out).
Can't make it to Stockholm or Sweden? Try my recipe.
Here are my four favourite favourite places to indulge in a semlor (or semla) ...
Lille Brors bageri
https://www.instagram.com/p/BeKnwVmlNh-/?taken-by=lillebrorsbageri
This little bakery is one of my recent discoveries. Definitely one worth visiting regardless whether it's semla season or not.
Their bun was delicious, despite being huge. The bun was soft, almost briochy, but without the richness (you can tell it was freshly baked) and filled with a delicious almond paste. The additional crunchy toasted almonds were a lovely touch. If you happen to go in and they don't have any at the counter, do ask as they usually fill them to order.
Rörstrandsgatan 12 11371 Stockholm
2. Petrus
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQqTwjUFyJS/?hl=en&taken-by=magnusfaviken
This bakery is perhaps my favourite bakery. They do a great selection of breads and pastries. There's a reason the world-renowned Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson says their buns are "a thing of beauty". They don't mess around with their semla.
Swedenborgsgatan 4B, 118 48 Stockholm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BduADSonKaB/?hl=en&taken-by=mrcake
The new kid on the block opened by popular Swedish TV chef, Roy Fares and Mattias Ljungberg (who owns Tössebageriet – more about that later) late last year. The bakery mixes up Swedish and American traditions with American-style cinnamon buns, cronuts and red velvet croissants ... but not forgetting the classic Swedish baked goods like your semla.
I probably picked the busiest day to go (a Sunday afternoon) when the place was packed to the rafters. Luckily they hadn't run out of semla and they also had the 'mini' sized ones. This size is usually just one or two mouthfuls (depending on the size of the mouth), which for me is perfect. You just get the right dose of fluffy cardamom bun, almond and feather-light whipped cream. Their semla definitely didn't disappoint. Just a shame the place was so crowded. (Also the lighting doesn't make for the cosiest of places).
https://www.instagram.com/p/BdemOEMlnbP/?hl=en&taken-by=tossemattias
They also do a nachosemla: cardamom pastry triangles served with whipped cream and almond paste. Personally, I think, something to avoid at all costs.
Rådmansgatan 12A 11425 Stockholm
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bdz5IfojcqS/?taken-by=magnusjohanssonbagerikonditori
When I visited, they had the regular semla in two sizes:medium (bottom left) and large, as well as bagelsemla (bottom right), semmel burger (top right) and kavlade semlor (top left). The semmel burger – a regular roll with almond paste and cream – didn't really speak to me. Nor did the bagelsemla. I was tempted by the kavlade semlor (a flaky pastry sandwich with whipped cream and almond paste) but then decided to go for the classic.
It was a soft, moist bun, heavily spiked with cardamom. The almond cream was quite sweet with a little crunch and the whipped cream was as light as fluffy clouds. I could only eat a quarter, but that's probably because I also tried their chocolate and caramel mousse semlor. The bun was quite dense and chocolatey. I liked the size (similar to Mr Cake's mini semlor, maybe a tad bigger). I wish they did the classic semlor in this size.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd1_XGvj6_F/?taken-by=magnusjohanssonbagerikonditori
This bakery is a little of the beaten track but still easily accessible with public transport.
Lugnets Allé 7 Hammarby Sjöstad 120 65 Stockholm
Been to Stockholm and had a good semlor? Or had a good semlor somewhere else in the world? Let me know below.
*Note: There is a semlor season which is January/February. It's very hard to find them outside that time.
